Sailaway 2015 - II We head West, Kas to Boxburun

When we went into town we were amazed at how quiet the harbour was, we were here in mid June 2012 - we could not get into the harbour as it was full of pleasure vessels? Unfortunately, not only the vessels were missing but the people too, obviously! In 2012 we described this place as "quaint", in 2015 we are unsure, when here in 2012 we had the option of the smaller back street markets or the larger Turkish store on the front of the harbour. Today we have the same Turkish stores, if not more, one Migross (Jet) one Migross (Marina) and one Carrefour (Mini), all with 200m, still good benefits for the buyers - all of them empty, other than us when we visited! If Ann could have found a Bimm's god knows what would have happened, I have never seem so much excitement in her eyes since, ----- well quite some time?

The old square was still an attractive area, the harbour, or room for the gullets has been extended, I know understand why as we approached Bozburun we thought it was so busy, lots and lots of gullets awaiting guests.

With the exception of a couple of clearly visitors, we were the only visitors here, which we found sad, there has been sizable investment over the past three years by all business, even the cafes off the front are well presented, it would be a pleasure to sit in any one of them. After running the gauntlet off the the harbour, usual stuff, "they remember you from last year" etc, etc, etc we chose for lunch one of the "pide" establishment outside of the square. The food was excellent, with complementarity water, for the two of us 13Tl, less than the price of a beer of the harbour, difficult to say what will happen here?

Log Entry Wednesday 10th June - We do not make Datça but Bozburun is an OK option.

We had checked the Turkish weather, which proclaimed that the trend of prolonged winds was over this evening, sitting in the bay at Turunç we were still experiencing the occasional heavy gust. We were all ready to go, so we decided to stick our heads out around the peninsular and see what was there, we could easily return to the known anchorage if need be? The hours under motor passed as we made our way southwest down the peninsular, in a matter of a few hours the gusts had disappeared almost completely, it looked like the Turkish forecast was accurate. The waters were a meter or so, but one would expect that as a result of the days winds. As we turned northwest and rounded Karaburun, putting the Greek Island of Simi on our port side it was all change! The wind had not fallen, it was now clear to us it was the terrain that had changed, providing protection from the now strong wind and resulting at least two meter seas against us. As we approached Yesilova Körfezi, our speed over the ground was less than 1 knot, depressing, at this rate Datça was another 12/15 hours away. With dawn breaking it was time for plan "B", we turned Sailaway northeast putting the wind on our port beam. Heavily reefed we were making 5-6 knots as daylight came, sliding down the waves - a wet ride, we were now making for Bozburun, and enjoying the sail!

With daylight, our destination was clear to us, as we passed under the lee of the mainland the wind and sea began to fall as you would expect.

We sailed through the channel to the south of Kizil Adasi the wind still falling and turning on the nose, engine back on, Datça appearing through the mist to the northwest of us.

Once past Kisel Adasi, the area of Bozburun was in front of us having passed the large gullet building yard. It seemed a lot busier than in 2012 when we last visited. The main anchorage off the town was packed tight, we crossed over to Bulgaz Koyu, although small, sitting behind a reef only five boats occupied it.

We were still experiencing strong gusts but all ok, we took two attempts to put ourselves in a satisfied position relative to the other occupants. Not sure if it was us or not, but within an hour two of the original occupants had left?

We plan to sit the winds out for a couple of days, looking at the available forecast, the Greek option seems more believable for this area.

Log Entry Tuesday 9th June - A busy day here in Turunç, we plan to leave this evening for Datça to sign out of Turkey.

We are ready to leave for Datça, this evening, if the winds settle, we have had prolonged, unfavourable winds through the night for the last couple of days, so for us, an over night trip makes sense, from Datça we will sign out of Turkey and move into Greece.

For some reason, here in Turunç, they appear to be having their busiest day since we arrived, with tourists from nearby Marmaris? Ann sits up top giving me a commentary as I work below on our water maker.

As we have now free capacity to store water, I had decided that tonight would be the first attempt at running our water maker. It had been maintained in a "stored condition" for two years since it was last used - marina's make you lazy! Clearly with two years of only running only to add new preservative, problems have to be anticipated. We were no exception, running it for the first time, identifies saline water leaks from the compression chamber. This area puts the salt water under tremendous pressure to separate out the salt content. It makes sense to strip it down, probably exchange the seals and retest. It can then run all night as we motor to produce good drinking water. That is what we did, and the care and attention paid us back with ten hours of trouble free operation during that night.

The beaches are being prepared for the tourists, in the early hours the sand washed up against the walls during the winter storms is re-distributed along the shoreline and "raked" flat. We see the local ducks, who we grow to hate as each time we leave the dinghy on the shore, they take up residency in it - still could be worse?

We have a couple of jobs before going ashore, trying out some new scrubbing pads, to keep Sailaway's hull clean of growth. Plant receives a makeover of very attract ice blue glass pebbles and a touch of water skiing?

Log Entry Saturday 5th June - We leave Fethiye and make for Turunç, just south of Marmaris.

Our trip was again against the traditional winds so another overnight trip, predominantly under engine. The excellent holding this bay provides is due to the thick black mud, Ann loves it, you can tell from her face! Little is said between us as she throws bucket after bucket of water over the deck, even with our chain was clearing the thick of it? I am tempted to call "missed a bit" but from experience it is best to wait until she is finished, unless you need cooling? Still, she cleared the deck perfectly as you would expect.

We were now on a direct route toward Turunç, it in time began to loom out of the mist, to out starboard the opening to Marmaris Limani. A truly eventful trip, the highlight to the trip being the single hour of sailing we were able to active with the engine off!

The high speed ferries pass by, into Marmaris, their wake felt only slightly in the anchorage.

As we sat having our breakfast on top a large splash was heard in the water, over by the shore line, a fish of some size. It was a solitary dolphin, feeding in the harbour, quite elusive, but I was able to catch a glimpse.

Ann had arranged a girlie day out with Susie, doing what women do? As we approached Deniz's Cafe in the dinghy we were told that Susie's daughter had given birth early, she was a Nanny! I had to collect the reworked engine injectors from the Synnai, so I left them to it. When I returned, the group had increased in size and clearly all celebrating the new arrival, we stayed a little longer, then bid our farewells and returned to Sailaway. It was disappointing that Ian was not there, we half expected him popping up!

We had the odd shower during the day, once again producing snow on the surrounding mountain caps.

Log Entry Wednesday 2nd June- Ann has a day out with Iris and John (Doffer), I have work to do!

Ann had arranged a girlie day out with Iris, coffee lunch, wandering around shops - what ever else you women do? I had work to do on Sailaway, the base mounting we use for our mainsail preventor had cracked, we needed that replaced with better fittings before we sailed again - four hours it took!

I knew Iris and Ann had to go to Gocek, John, Iris's husband, John joined them to source new material for fender covers. Iris works for one of the Gullet Agencies, so they visit the quay and the cafe often frequented during her working days - they were looked after very well.

It was amazing to see the spread put down before them, not to mention the schnapps I was told about on Ann's return. John even had an ice bucket for his beer? I was amazed to hear they were able to clear the table as my Ann, eats very little as all know? Anyone interested, I had a cheese and onion wrap I prepared myself, no schnapps obviously, Ann could not eat anything that evening so I had a tin of beans?

Log Entry Monday 1st June - A busy day, dive tanks to drop off and an even in Yacht Classic Hotel, I wonder who we will bump into?

We have manage to track down "European Dive Centre" to have our air tanks filled, we had passed there last known base in the dolumus, but it has actually been demolished fully.

We put our dinghy along side a sunken gullet just three boats down from the dive boat, the water is full of pollution, fuel, etc. The only other option was to leave the dingy a few hundred meters away and man handle to the tanks back and forth?

Fortunately Alan the proprietor of the Centre is on board, we have a bit of a catch up, not too long their customers begin to arrive. The Dive Centre had been promised new promises, pool, bar area, every thing his business would need, he was promised it would be complete in May! To quote Alan, "they did not exactly say which May it was to be", it was not even started? The sunken gullet, we though it was from the winter storms, Alan tells us it went down over night, they had been having issues for some time but the constantly running pumps keeping her afloat must have failed?

In this section of the town there is major constructions under way, any building that fail to meet Turkish Earthquake Legislation, what ever that is, are condemned and reduced to rubble, rebuilt where appropriate - so we are told?

That evening we head over to Yacht Classic Hotel for dinner, there are four other vessels from Kas Marina on the pontoon so we wander around to say hello - yes, Ian and Alan were there too, I new that question was going through your mind. We climbed aboard Alan's boat for a chat, we did not stay too long as there was a get together on one of the other vessels. The "lesser classes from A Pontoon" in Kas Marina, that was us, could only look over in envy?

The noisy group from Kas Marina joined later, one table behind us, clearly with the odd exchange of comments. I was surprised there was anything left for them to order, Ann was not really hungry so she destroyed her starter, then her lamb shank, then, luckily she was able to demolish a good half litre of flavoured ice cream, for a short person she can eat an awful lot! We had hoped to meet up with Banu, as we had heard she was due a second child, but she was not working,. Her brother was present mainly on the pontoons, Banu contacted us a couple of days later to say she had been taking time off before the birth of her child, must be imminent I guess?

It had not been an easy night, we talked quite late last night and again, early this morning. As we sat in the cockpit drinking coffee, the morning even appeared very quiet, very little stirring in our small bay.

It was one year today that Ann lost her mum, she still comes up in conversation daily, not so much in the form of upset, as she still misses her dearly, but in the form of memories. There is barley a day goes by, without my Ann making a statement that one would have expected coming from her mum, my reply to whatever it is "yes Mum!" which always brings a chuckle.

As darkness approaches we have our dinner up on deck, we plan to light candles in her memories, we had looked at two options, both Chineese. The first was "Floating Chinese Lanterns", the fact that the Coast Guard was just apposite, and the possibility of them being confused as distress flares made us decide on the second option. I had considered trying to explain our actions to the Coast Guard Officers but thought the better of that too.

With dinner over, darkness fell, the beach club had live music on, a Turkish lady singing a variation of songs, mainly easy listening. The candles we had decided to light were Chineese Floating Lanterns, I strung them together, tying them to Sailaway to avoid them floating off in the breeze.

The candles went on for some time moving around Sailaway in the darkness, we donned fleeces as the temperature fell, eventually we retired below leaving to their own devices, still burning bright - night, night Mum!

Log Entry Saturday 30th May - An impromptu meet turns into a great day, you'll never guess who turned up?

We rise to a lovely morning, a clearer sky than previous mornings but the local forecast is saying 60% chance of precipitation. We had promised to pop over and meet up with Susie, she is helping John re-decorate his steel sailboat. She works most days apparently and said just to call over. I needed to go to the Synnai (Industrial Area) for diesel fuel line for the injector return system, my patch was much better than previous, but new pipe work was clearly needed.

As we pulled up to Deniz Cafe, sure enough Susie was on her knees on John's deck, painting, just like my Ann. John was sitting ashore supervising with a beer very much unlike me! We waved to Susie who causally waved back, she then realised who it was and walked off? Clearly not, it's a year since we last saw her, lots of catching up to do, the most significant, Susie is to be a Nan soon. As I met her, I said "you are the messyest I have ever seen you, and that is a complement." A woman in paint soiled clothes is a good thing, worth their weight in gold, especially if you have a steel boat - helps if they can cook too! We sat for an hour or so then left to go into town, we would catch up fully when we return, we left our dinghy at Deniz's getting the dolumus to the Synnai.

While pursuing the pipe I met a gentleman, Cumhur UMUT @ Yildiz Pompa, very helpful and displayed great pride in his work as a diesel specialist. We decided to have the old injectors refurbished by him too, he took me through the testing of each unit and what was wrong with each. He suggested than from what he saw, that we should clean out our tank and renew our filters. The prices where a little strange but over all good, 20Tl per test per unit, with the replacement of all four injector valve assemblies (Bosch originals, I was told, but who knows?) and two meters of return pipe work included, it came to 300Tl (£75). They would be ready tomorrow, providing us with a good spare set of injectors for the future. I explained with the help of the guy next door who spoke better English than Cumhur, that we had already cleaned the tank and changed filters before we put the refurbished injectors in - Cumhur shook my hand and smiled. I find it rewarding to deal with such people, great pride in their work.

We returned by dolumus to Deniz's Cafe to meet up again with Susie, who else should be there, Ian, Mike, Elaine (Spicy Lady), Paul, Alan (Also from Kas) & Sue - we are now convinced that there must be more than one Ian in the area? Eric & Karin had planned to have the catamaran for two weeks but as a brand new vessel they had had so many problems with things breaking that they handed it back a week early and were flying off to Paris for their second week. Ian was now to spend a few days with Alan on his boat heading back to Kas, what a life that guy has! Poor Adrianne being left at home doing, well, what ever she wants really, Ann is envious for some reason?

The rain clouds appeared as forecast, we were forced to take cover from the rain and the sun, by now a number of other boaters and friends had arrived, quite a gathering was developing. Alan, began with his guitar and Ian followed with his harmonica, the gathering grew in size and the singing developed. a typical, noisy Sunday afternoon.

It was strange as Ann and I sat at the top of the table, we noticed a woman trying to get her baby to sleep behind Ian & Alan, we joked about the noise, she had no problem with it. Her father, (granddad) requested "Hotel California" but the musicians could not oblige unfortunately. He was not too concerned, he pulled a blanket over himself and relaxed.

We had Susies's proclaimed cousin, Val with us, her husband, Phil joined us later. Could Val and Susie eat, we got peckish and ordered "double chips" just as well as they disappeared before our eyes - bless them. Val spent some time trying to catch me on camera, singing or smiling, that was never going to happen, I like being miserable!

When we returned to Sailaway, what had been rain here had turned to a covering of snow on the mountain peaks, surely that was our last farewell with Ian?

This morning, we are to make our way to Fethiye, we promised "Spicy Lady" that we would pop over for a coffee this morning before we leave - more farewells? Elaine caught my attention earlier, she climbs into the dinghy, still in her pyjamas, she then shoots ashore. I said to Ann, "I think Elaine is sleep walking?" We prepared Sailaway, and shouted across to see if coffee time now was OK? As I climbed aboard Spicy Lady, I enquired about Elaine's sleep walking? I think they are used to me now, they skipped over my question to explain that she had been checking the port shoreline as the starboard had chaffed, it was good. I preferred the "sleep walking" story myself!

As we drank our coffee Elaine and Mike declared that they two along with Paul and Sue (clearly) were also going to Fethiye, a further delayed farewell was needed. Mike offered to help us with our lines, we graciously accepted.

All ready to go we started the engine and called on Mike's good nature, he came over immediately. Loosening the two stern lines was a great help, all we were left to do there was tidy up, which we did. There was already usable breeze, within minutes the head sail was out and the engine off - lovely. We would use the headsail across to the channel out into Fethiye Körfezi, then hopefully put up the main and headsail at the other side of the channel.

The trip over was very peaceful and relaxing, the wind however appeared very local, we were unsure as to what would be out in the bay?

We took in our surroundings with great pleasure, Ann even photographed the dinghy to prove it was still there, she questions my knots!

Once out in the bay, we saw Spicy Lady making her way towards us from behind, there was no race in place, formally, but what an opportunity to teach them a lesson?

My concentration was on Spicy Lady, we had our main out fully but the wind was inconsistent, frequently not even enough to keep the headsail full. I watched as Spicy Lady caught us and slowly overtook, Ann was a little bored with constant adjustment. I thought to myself we have two options, either pole out the headsail, or, put out the cruising chute - I did not have the courage to suggest either to Ann, so we continued mainly with just the mainsail. Spicy Lady appeared to think they had won something, not sure what as there was no race in place?

I was distracted by a catamaran, looming of our port bow, I turned to see what the hell they were playing at, being so close? Ann called, "It's Ian again!", not again, he keeps turning up! Ian, Erich & Karin are making a leisurely way towards Fethiye too, looks like another farewell do to me?

As we moved under the mainsail alone, we could hear the thunder and see the lightening passing over the Gocek Bays behind us, it looked as if we may stay dry? Finished with us, Ian, Erich & Karin shot off ahead to torment Spicy Lady.

Mike later shared with me how he was using his dinghy sailing knowledge, to keep his headsail full, where I clearly struggled. He jested about winning, I looked unperturbed replying, "it is not the winning that matters, it is the participation". My comment was met with "Bollocks, losers always say that! Still, if we ever do race in the same conditions I will be ready for him next time.

It was during the time we were setting our anchor in the bay I experienced one of the most embarrassing happening of my cruising life. Ann had dropped the anchor and I was putting Sailaway hard in reverse to ensure it was dug in well. There was a large bang, and the engine went silent! I had tangled the dinghy painter (towing rope) around the propeller it was stuck fast. Only one thing to do, put down more chain to ensure we were safe and get in the water to free it - it was bloody freezing! It took some time as it was solid, the rope cutter fastened to the propeller shaft had failed miserably. Once it was free I then inspected the gearbox, mechanically it seemed OK, we then restarted the engine and completed the anchor process. We were luck for two reasons, firstly the weather was good, our situation, being completely disabled could have been serious, secondly because of the loud bang, I suspected possible damage to the gearbox, all seems good, only time will tell!

Log Entry Friday 28th May - How to secure a buoy from a large catamaran, a perfect teacher

We sat in the cockpit, drinking coffee, reflecting on yesterday afternoon and the time we had spent with Ian & Adrianne over the past years, surely we will see them again? There was already quite a breeze in place, even the gullets were using it, always great to see.

We broke off from the chatter to work on our job list, Ann polished Sailaway's stainless steel. I had to work on the injectors low pressure return lines, I had fitted refurbished injectors before we left Kas, the improved performance was clearly noted. However, not thinking, I had re-used the old return piping and during the 15 hours of motoring to get here, they leaked quite badly. We were heading up to Fethiye in time, new pipe as was needed, could easily be sourced at the "Synnai" industrial area. To improve the leaking I cut the ends from the old pipes and refitted - it helped the situation a lot, but still leaking.

Ann shouts down to me "Come and see who's here!" It was Ian and his friends, he was teaching them how to secure a buoy correctly. We made a number of joking calls to him as you can image, we were sure we would see him again, but we never thought this soon!

An excellent team effort was witnessed, nothing like the vessel the day before - still, we all have to learn!

It was good to see them stand back and admire their excellent work, they then loosen off the buoy and we said our farewells to Ian again, for the last time, they then disappeared to the north.

We had been talking to Ian by telephone, he was helping a friend with a catamaran which was berthed at a restaurant just outside the Köy where we where. We arranged to have a farewell beer with him, Mike, Elaine, Paul & Sue (Spicy Lady) went also.

Joking aside, it was a great afternoon, plenty of laughter and good spirits, The table was never cleared of empty beer cans, perhaps that was how they we keeping the bill? When the time came to say goodbye, it was quite an emotional farewell from ourselves with Ian - we are sure we will see him again.

Log Entry Thursday 27th May - Kevin to the rescue of a family on a charter boat - my hero!

We had been working on the deck of Sailaway as a large catamaran approached the buoy off to our starboard, the guy was at the helm and mum and daughter, I presume, on the deck. What caught my eye was the mum at the back of the catamaran, very good I thought they are reversing to the buoy as they should in that type of craft, then I realised that they had actually ran over it and she was looking for it. Serious damage to the propeller could have been the result, once it "popped" out from under the keel they went around again for a second go. I watched as both females directed the helmsman to the buoy, they then tried to pick it up to get it on deck - never going to happen? Kevin shouted across and asked if they needed assistance, they gratefully accepted.

He was greeted with a some what vacant stare, he asked them for a rope, putting it through the ring on the buoy, he threw it back and tied it off.

The family gathered to the front of the vessel, Kevin asked if he could be of further assistance, the gentleman said "No thanks" he explained how they should have secured the buoy, from the stern and left them to it - my hero!

Log Entry Tuesday 25th May - We awake on our first morning in Sarsella, who should we find next to us?

As I climbed into the cockpit with the first coffee of the day, it was like waking up from a nightmare! Anchored to our port side was "Spicy Lady", Elaine and Mike from Kas, we were unsure as to finish our coffee first or just leaving - only joking obviously, always good to see them, they had Elaine's brother, Paul on board with his wife, Sue.

We had our breakfast, cleared a couple of jobs from the job list then we decided to take our rubbish over to the beach bar to dispose of. We called over to see them on Spicy Lady and was asked on board for a coffee. A couple of boats over to there port another couple aboard "Molly", quite a Kas gathering, we knew Ian was due around the area soon too. We chattered for a couple of hours, then we went ashore to dispose of the rubbish and check out the beach bar.

Unfortunately one of the rubbish bags had leaked on the bottom of Ann's newly cleaned dinghy, we blamed Spicy Ladies bag! Still, Ann being Ann, it had to be cleaned immediately, and so it was, and the rubbish disposed of. The pontoon had partially fallen into the sea, or rotted away, still very little else had changed from last year when we were here. The anchorage seemed remarkably empty, still, it was only May.

We love this bay, for what ever reason, we have spent many hours, even days watching the world pass us by here. The road stops here, ongoing islands are serviced via the water from here. The beach area is predominantly, for some reason typically Turkish, not frequented too often by westoners? The cafe services this need, food simple, traditional and of coarse, Turkish. The first change I did noticed was that the menu/price list board had disappeared, it had been there for the three past years we had visited. I went to order a couple of beers, the guy recognised us, gave me a chance to practise my Turkish, he shook my hand at my attempt. Out of curiosity I asked the cost of a beer and was told 10Tl, I am sure we only paid 6Tl last year and it had just gone up for five? The lack of a price list to me means dual pricing, one for us and one for the Turks. My thoughts were more or less confirmed as we were served for a second drink by another guy we have known from our first visit here. He asked, in Turkish of coarse, to the other guy "How much should I charge them?" Still, a shame but, missed opportunities had clearly been realised, it is up to you to pay it or not!

We sat for over an hour or more, we sampled their chips, as good as ever, the mist on the mountains in the far distance cleared periodically, snow on the peaks was visible at times! The anchorage seemed to be filling up some what as we left to return to Sailaway, good to be back here.

Well three weeks to the day of arrival we are ready to go! We had planned a shake down trip, a few days away locally at anchor, this being the only way to fully test things out. We gave up on that idea, it was to be an over night trip to Fethiye originally, but we ended up after 15 hours in Sarsella Köy, in Gocek Limani to the south of Fethiye. Even the best prepared plans are made to change - ours quite often do?

We, having bid our last, possible, farewell we have dinner and then prepare to leave our berth, our departure time driven by the closing time (1900 hours) of the fuel station. We take on fuel and make our way out of the Limani under engine, the forecast was for no wind, great as it would be against us in this direction and clear skies, plenty of stars to watch.

Putting Sailaway on the autopilot, we tidy up, lines and fenders put away, she moves through the water well after the cleaning of the propeller and hull. Very little going on, the beaches quiet, only the odd fishing boat. The most of the local pleasure traffic, re-berthed after their day out.

We see only one vessel returning to the marina, but ahead the skies are clearly changing, they will not be clear, a strong indication of rainfall ahead of us, our wet gear is brought out at the ready - when it rains, it rains!

The skies remain the main interest during the night, no stars obviously, but better still, no rain, our gear was put on but only because of the falling temperature, still it is May? As we turned north east, rounding IIbis Burnu, day breaks, the sky does not look much better for today. As we enter Fethiye Körfezi, we change our plans, we head further easterly to make for Sarsella Köy in Skopea Limani.

As we cross the Limani over to Sarsella, it brings back many fond memories, we know Ian is in here somewhere helping a friend on a charter, but we know not where as yet, we will talk to him later.

We pick up a buoy easily on the west shore of the bay and tie back, time for breakfast and watch the work go by, then we retire for a couple of hours to catch up on or sleep. The trip had been quite uneventful, the main issue to address was that when I fitted the new injectors, I had re-used the low pressure return pipe work. It was leaking, I clearly should have replaced it, I made a temporary repair cutting the ends off and refitting, I would replace them in Fethiye. Other resulting jobs were just bits and pieces, a good trip over all although it be under motor.